Stories of Ale; the lost tales, #1
Jim and Kumar happened to be off in Vegas for a friend’s bachelor party, an event I was not invited to as there had been some bad blood between the groom and I. And the timing could not have been better as it allowed T and I the opportunity to take a nice drive up the Maine coast and spend a few days among the fiery reds and oranges of the northern New England foliage, surrounded by crashing waves. And of course, good beer.
Out first beer-related event was attending the “The Thirteenth Annual Mount Desert Island Fall Celebration Acadia’s Oktoberfest & Food Festival“, held at the Smuggler’s Den Campground in Southwest Harbor, ME. We got there about a half an hour before the event started and enjoyed some conversation with a local guy while we stood in line. I was reminiscing about the two summers I had spent camping in this very campground while the aroma of cooked sausage and barbecue wafted up from the tents just down a small incline from us. As the clock struck noon, the taps began flowing and a festive atmosphere was soon in full swing with the beer tent filling up within an hour and a half, while the food/music tent next door was a little less crowded, but still had a good amount of turnover at the picnic style tables laid out in the middle. There was a great variety of food options available including barbecue, Thai, Mexican, typical burgers and fries, kettle corn in three different varieties, and of course Maine blueberry pie. But food was not our focus on this early afternoon.
We made a beeline for Marshall Wharf Brewing, located in the king’s position at the back of the tent. Among the 21 Maine breweries who were in attendance (as well as two wineries), Marshall Wharf had the biggest lines throughout the afternoon. I believe this was one of the first events they had attended, and there was a definite buzz about the stuff they were pouring. Among the two of us, we sampled the MacFindlay Scotch Ale, Old. No. 55, Pemaquid Oyster Stout, Illegal Ale-ien, Cant Dog Imperial IPA, and the Attenuator Doppelbock. All were outstanding. None were pours I would not have enjoyed three or four more of. We decided on the spot that we’d be drinking more of their brews a few days later at the restaurant tied to their brewery.
In between sampling the Marshall Wharf stuff, we also had some Atlantic Brewing Oktoberfest of some kind, although I had been hoping for some Brother Adam’s on tap. Black Bear brewing had some interesting stuff, although their artwork outshone what was poured in our glasses. Liberal Cup was also in attendance, but we had just had lunch at their place the day before, and they hadn’t brought anything that we hadn’t drank with our fish and chips. The Yamittyville Horror from Bray’s was nicely attenuated with a generous, but not overwhelming, sweet potato aspect to it. There was another standout, a double brown, but I can’t remember now who brewed it. We took off around 3:00 p.m., a good two hours before the fest was to end, but we’d had our fill and were looking forward to dinner later at Havana in Bar Harbor.
A few short days later we found ourselves on the doorstep of the Three Tides, home of Marshall Wharf’s sister bar/restaurant. The brewery is located right on the Passgassawakeag River, with Three Tides literally ten yards across the way, also on the river. The bar/restaurant, as well as the brewery, seem to have morphed old river mills and warehouses in to places of absolute wonder. Although we did not have the opportunity to walk through the brewery, if it in any way mimics the look and feel of Three Tides, to a beer geek it would be like falling through the rabbit hole into Willy Wonka’s shangri-la.
In order to enter the wonderful kingdom of Three Tide’s beer paradise, you must walk up a series of wooden stairways which are in turn connected to a number of different decks and areas with views of the river. This maze-like vibe only adds to the child-like insanity of the tree house feel to the establishment. In the summer months, I can imagine few better places to be idling away the evening hours than here. A boules court is available for use down on the ground level platform area. Inside, the bar stretches from right to left, looking out on to the water, in a weird, jagged pattern that allows for distinct zones, unusual for a bar. Ringing around the perimeter of the wall are booths that end at the far right corner where the bathrooms are entered via some strange, counter-weighted sliding doors, like something you might find in an old, well, storage facility.
We had arrived promptly at 5:00 while there was still plenty of sunlight, but as the sun dwindled and the night began to cast its ghostly pall, the place took on a different personality with candles lit throughout and other low lighting hung strategically from the rafters, again creating a sense of private areas throughout the open space. Red lanterns were lit out on the deck areas, adding yet another unusual visual touch which just seemed to work.
We had taken the two seats smack dab in the middle of the bar, a nice indentation that allowed a view of everything around us, and an easy bridge to speaking with the bartender, Seth, a quietly gregarious and efficient drinks master. I ordered a Cant Dog Imperial IPA, while T had the Attenuator Doppelbock. Both were home runs. We had dinner reservations at another place later, unfortunately, as we could have spent the whole night here eating and drinking. David, the owner and general MC, joined us a few times during our two hours of sitting at the bar, buying a round for us, and pouring some stuff that wasn’t on tap that evening, the Wrecking Ball Baltic Porter cold infused with coffee roasted at the brewery’s neighboring coffee roaster. The stuff was being saved for the anniversary party that upcoming weekend, but David seemed unable to contain his excitement for the offering and thus shared some small pours with all of the patrons at the bar, numbering about ten at that point. The barkeep pointed the pickled eggs out to us that he had placed on the bar top, while also quietly offering us menus. Although there were plenty of items to choose from, we didn’t want to ruin our appetites for dinner later, so we held off from ordering anything, although I was happy to have an Illegal Ale-ian, a “hybrid light, with blue agave nectar, on nitro,” at 6.2% abv. Very refreshing, and somewhat of a palate cleanser following the previous two pints. Along with the ten brews on tap, there were also a number of bottled offerings, with three Dogfish selections, Midas Touch, Olde School Barleywine, and the 120 Minute IPA. The wine selection was quite extensive as well, with a focus on stuff from Argentina.
The only low-lights were that not only had we been a few days early for their anniversary party, but we were also a single day early for growler fills. Apparently, David had received a call from his supplier, saying the growlers would be arriving the very next day. We were sorely tempted to extend our stay in the area for another 24 hours, but we had pretty much exhausted all of the local sites and scenery, and thus decided it just wasn’t meant to be on this trip, but that we would load up on growlers when we head back up there for the following year’s anniversary party when, David informed us, he’d be pouring many of his offerings from wood.
Based on the beer, setting, atmosphere, and conviviality of David, Seth, and the rest of the crew, Three Tides/Marshall Wharf is one of the best brewpubs in New England, standing shoulder to shoulder with The Alchemist and the Portsmouth Brewery. I only wish that we lived closer.